Rajamangala National Stadium (Bangkok)

Rajamangala National Stadium is located as part of the large complex under the operation of the Sports Authority of Thailand (SAT), in the district of Hua Mak, in the east of the capital, Bangkok. 

The main material used in construction was concrete and therefore, creating a stadium that is both impressive and imposing. It is undoubtedly dramatic, especially when viewed from its approach or by visitors heading into the city from Suvarnabhumi Airport. 

The stands rise and fall like a giant, exaggerated version of the stadium opened in Huddersfield in 2004. At each end are quite narrow tiers of seats but the tiers rise and rise as they move round the sides until they peak level with the half-way line.

It has been home to the national football team for many matches as well as being used for other events over the years after being opened in 1988 in readiness to stage the Asean Games to great acclaim.

Groups in the 2007 AFC Asian Cup were staged in the arena, including the matches which Thailand played in. Thai club sides have also used the stadium when playing in continental cup competitions. 

Krung Thai Bank FC, who would later morph into what is now BG Pathum United and PEA FC used it in the AFC Champions League and AFC Cup, respectively. Aside from football, it has been used for athletics, pop concerts and political rallies as the SAT try to use it to its full potential.

Among the musical stars to have entertained the crowds in the magnificent bowl are Lada Gaga, Coldplay, Ed Sheeran, Harry Styles, Justin Bieber, One Direction and Blackpink, as well as numerous other shows and exhibitions.

The side tribunes are designated 'East' and 'West'. 'East' is the uncovered popular side; 'West' is the covered side where the more expensive seats are. The two ends are designated 'North' and 'South'.

The capacity of the stadium is around 55,000. The oft-quoted figure of 65,000 was the capacity when the stadium first opened but at that time the 'North', 'South' and 'East' sides were bare, concrete steps. 

The stadium staged the home games of BB-CU as their ground share with Army United was not permissible during their spell in the Thai Premier League, as United were also in that division. Games were played in front of small crowds.

Manchester United defeated Liverpool 4-0 in the Century Cup in 2022 in front of 50,428 spectators. In 2023 tournament football returned to Rajamangla, as group games in the under 17s Asian Cup were staged. The largest attendance came when 421 witnessed Japan's 1-1 draw with Uzbekistan. 

My visits

The following is my description of my visit as part of a ground hop around Thailand in March/April 2007 that appeared in the Scarborough Athletic fanzine, Abandon Chip

"The week after Chiang Mai (an amateur international cricket tournament I attended) I had time to kill while my hosts Steve and Ea were at work, so I decided this was a great time to adventure without the assistance of local knowledge, which led to the challenge. 

The following Tuesday I took a taxi to the country's major venue, the imposing Rajamangala Stadium. Despite the outer gates been open the guards wouldn’t let me in before I eventually came across the Thailand Museum of Sport. 

A kind lady let me have a look around while she enquired on the telephone if I could get inside the stadium, once that she’d satisfied herself that I didn’t belong to the media. Our esteemed editor obviously hadn’t sorted me any Abandon Chip accreditation.

I’d borrowed Steve’s good camera which had no doubt raised her suspicions. The stadium didn't disappoint me once inside and it proved worth the effort in negotiation. It is a huge bowl with the usual athletics facilities which dips down at each end with just a roof covering the main side. 

The stadium can accommodate 65,000 and is all seated. It would be the location if ever Mr Scudamore and his cronies get away with their plans to play Premier League games around the world".

Thailand U23 0 North Korea U23 0 (Tuesday 31^st March 2015) AFC Under 23 Qualifier (att: 20,000)

It was the second day of my holiday in Thailand in readiness for the Chiang Mai International Cricket Sixes and after a decent rest at my host Steve Walker’s house, his girlfriend Fah delivered us some fine local food from a nearby street stall in Minburi on the outskirts of Bangkok.

After many visits to the Land of Smiles, I was determined to use local transport and I’d done plenty of homework regarding buses to be able to do so. Steve and I caught an open backed songthaew to the main road in Minburi in what proved to be sweltering temperatures. 

We then continued by catching a number 27 service bus which dropped us opposite the ever-impressive indoor air conditioned Bangkapi Mall, offering welcome rest bite from the conditions before heading for our third mode of transport.

This came in the form of the The Khlong Saen Saep Express Boat. The short journey dropped us off at Mahadthai from where we had a look in the Adidas store and a large outlet with sports goods from all the major manufacturers on the corner of Ramkhamhaeng 65 and the main road. The complete journey of around 20km cost about 58p for the pair of us.

The stadium was across the busy thoroughfare, which required the footbridge to cross just under the flyway. Fans were assembling ready for their team's big game. The other group game between Cambodia and the Philippines had kicked off at 4pm inside, but we decided to wait for the main event at 7pm. 

Requiring refreshment and some food, we grabbed some cheap fried chicken from a street vendor which helped enhance our thirst. Google Maps were not as reliable as we'd hoped, and after a bit of a wild goose chase, we settled for a large beer in the trendy Wink Bar.

We were looking for a bar selling worldwide craft beers on the map, but we ended up outside the stadium for a tin of Leo before buying our 200 Baht (£4 tickets). These were value enough for our match, but they covered both games. No programmes were available.

Extensive searches and several ticket checks were carried out before we headed up to our seat in the open West Stand. I had been in touch with Tom, a groundhopping mate who I’d last seen at Leatherhead. He was now teaching English in Bangkok and got stuck into watching games around the country. He was at the back of the lower tier and waiting for us.

We found three seats together towards the back a bit further round so we could have a good chat. Our side and the two ends began to fill up. The support when everyone sang or cheered in unison was most impressive. Three ultra sections were spread around leading the support.

The game itself was short of action and attacking intent for such an important clash, being the final game in the group. Thailand had not capitalised on building their goal difference against the two weaker sides in the four-team group and now required a win to top the section and automatically qualify for the finals. 

The North Koreans looked a far better organised side and we all predicted that they weren’t about to be beaten. As the match went into the second half we were surprised and frustrated by the home sides tactics. 

It was as though they had no concern. By the eightieth minute we were getting a bit tetchy and lamented the attitudes on show. The game finished with a whimper without any real goal mouth action. The home side took their plaudits as we trudged out.

Tom joined us for some post-match refreshment as the crowds drifted by. The ‘highlights’ were being shown on TV in the open bar we chose along with interviews. No-one seemed concerned in the slightest. 

We had an inkling that we were missing something when Tom found out the news that Thailand had gone through as a best runner up. The news of earlier kick offs around Asia had obviously been passed onto the players on the pitch. Fans leaving the stadium kept coming by. They’d stayed behind to celebrate.

We went over the road and found a fine upstairs bar overlooking things and with open sides. Each of us had a Thai meal and a large pint bottle of beer. The total cost was 480 Baht or less than £10. The area around Ramkhamhaeng University and the Sports Authority of Thailand really was a decent find.

Steve and I finished off by jumping in a cab and ending proceedings with a couple of nightcaps outside our favourite Minburi bar, Sudtong Club, to round off an educational and great value for money outing.

Bangkok United 2 Buriram United 0 (Saturday 5^th August 2023) Thai Champions Cup (att: 10,824)

A shock in the Thai equivalent of the Community Shield as Bangkok United (BU) did a proper job on last season’s treble winners Buriram United (BR). Thoroughly deserved it was too, as from the outset the winners went about their task, threatening before Brazilian striker Willen finished off a smart move on eight minutes.

BR new signing Ramil Sheydayev of Azerbaijan origins looked good out wide but there seemed to be an over reliance on supplying him which was soon pounced upon, and he gradually became increasingly frustrated throughout the match.

The club had fired forward Jonaton Bolingi in the summer for ill-discipline, but his replacement in the starting lineup, Lonsana Doumbouya looked lightweight, losing interest quickly after being the recipient of a strong areal challenge from Suphan Thongsong.

International striker Supachai Jaided seemed strangely muted playing just behind him. It was a curious performance from the favourites to retain the Thai league title, though Bangkok won the corresponding fixture the previous season. There are no points at stake in a friendly.

Thitipan Puangchan in a holding midfield role for BU was excellent as was the scorer of the second goal Eid Mahmoud, a Palestinian who always impresses me who notched five minutes after the restart.

His chance came after more woeful BR defensive work allowed a wide man to skip past the full back and deliver a low cross. The play from the Bangkok side was fluid throughout with their keeper Patiwat Khammai making one excellent save in the first half and a regulation one after the break.

A special mention to the referee Mr Somsingha who clamped down when necessary but gave the game a chance to flow which it did. He also did well in my opinion to wave away much of the moaning emanating from the Buriram crew.

It was great to be back at Rajamanagala. The place had suffered durng the pandemic and was getting a blast from some Thai based westerners on social media owing to the lack of football being played there and a recent postponement featuring Leicester City and Tottenham Hotspur.

In truth I suspect that had more to do with the lack desire from the two teams than the conditions. There was a floodlit 6-a-side beach football tournament in progress with crowds round it when I was leaving as well as lots of other facilities being in use.

It created a vibrant atmosphere around the place, as many athletes from a wide range of disciplines got to use the facilities. Whether it's archery, ice hockey, gymnastics, velodrome cycling, swimming, athletics, snooker, or one of the other multitude of sports with a national authority, then Rajamangala is the place to head.

I arrived by two buses and a boat down the Saen Seap Canal a couple of hours before kickoff and bough cheap food from the open market next to the main road before putting on my sad eyes and getting the open fronted Wink Bar to serve me eighty minutes ahead of their 6pm opening time so that I could get back over the road for kickoff.

My return journey, by one of the many buses that pass by along a bustling Ramkhamhaeng Road at the front of the complex. I changed to taxi near Fashion Island and was home ready for food in just over an hour after fulltime.